I ended up coming here two days in a row, and it wasn’t for lack of nearby options. The sardine roll, baked in a wood-fired oven, took me to my happy place. Great local beers on tap, and the fridge has hard-to-find canned beer from all over Portugal.
If you go early to beat the crowds, you can spend plenty of time here and really get a feel for what life was like 500 years ago in Portugal. The kitchen was fascinating: Imagine roasting a whole pig, or cooking stew for hundreds of guests.
Hike from Sintra to Pena palace to see gems like this
The palace itself, honestly, is best seen from the outside (crowds and queues are epic). But the hike up the hill from Sintra to the palace is magical. If you can do a moderately strenuous hike, don’t bother with a Tuk Tuk!